Chapter
9
Snowshoeing
On Wednesday the weather finally cleared, and
over coffee and bagels Vin and Nicky looked out at an azure sky and two feet of
fresh snow on their front lawn. The
snowfall in the D.C. area had started late Saturday night and continued with
varying degrees of intensity for over eighteen hours, with the suburbs north
and west of the city hit especially hard.
On Monday it stopped snowing and residents began the task of digging out
on a day sculpted by blowing and drifting snow.
Before much progress was made, an Alberta Clipper swept into the
mid-Atlantic on Tuesday, leaving several additional inches in its wake.
“Think
they’ll be able to open the Clinic today?”, Vin asked. Most of the secondary roads had yet to see a
snowplow.
“Doubtful,”
Nicky said. “But I’ll call Abby to see
what’s going on.”
Abby
said that she and Carlos would to try to get in for a half-day each, but all
appointments had been canceled and the Clinic would be on an emergency-only
footing again. Since Nicky had been able
to work for a few hours Tuesday, Abby said she wasn’t needed today.
“And
I thought our snowshoes were going to gather dust all winter,” Vin said.
Nicky
squinted skeptically. “You think we can
snowshoe in two feet of powder?”
“Sure.
That’s what those detachable tails are for.
The deep stuff.”
“Where
were you thinking of going?”
“How
about the Billy Goat Trail?”
“Are
you nuts? I hiked the Billy Goat Trail
at our staff outing in October. We
practically had to use ropes to climb some of those rocks. And that was on a warm, dry day.”
“You
hiked section A,” Vin said, “above Mather Gorge.” He stretched to reach a folding paper
map. “Which our ‘Hiking Trails of Great
Falls Maryland’ map describes as ‘strenuous’ and ‘very physically
demanding’. That’s the most dramatic
section. I’m thinking of section C,
which the map says is ‘moderate, with scenic river views’.”
“Hmm,”
Nicky said. “I didn’t realize there were
multiple Billy Goat Trails.”
“It’s
split into three sections. Section C is
the furthest downstream.”
“How
long is it?”
“Section
C is 1.6 miles and runs parallel to the towpath and the river, between the
two. It has a trailhead on the towpath
at each end. We could start at the upper
one, snowshoe to the lower trailhead, and come back on the towpath.”
“Do
you think we could make it over there today?”
“I
think so,” Vin said. “The upper
trailhead is right off the parkway at a place called Carderock.” He showed her the map, which depicted a
recreational field, picnic areas, and a string of parking lots between the
canal and the river.
“This
all sounds a little premeditated. Like
you’ve been planning it for days.”
“Maybe,”
Vin said, failing to suppress a smile.
“Since I heard the forecast, anyway.
A guy at the New Year’s party told me the Carderock trail has a great
climbing area for beginners.”
“This
doesn’t look like a good day to start your rock-climbing career,” Nicky
said. “Besides, I thought you said it
was a ‘moderate’ trail.”
“It
is. That’s what the map says. I think the climbing rocks are off to the
side somewhere. I’m more interested in
taking pictures of the woods and the rocks in the snow.”
Nicky’s
expression relaxed. She stretched an elbow over her head in a
pose that meant she was mentally preparing for exercise.
“C’mon,”
he said, convinced now he could persuade her.
“When are we going to see conditions like this again here?”
Nicky
acquiesced, so they dressed in the shell pants, fleece tops, and hiking boots
that comprised their fair-weather snowshoeing gear. Vin packed his camera, a bag of fig bars, and
two plastic water bottles in his daypack.
He threw their snowshoes and a pair of ski poles for Nicky in the back
of his Pathfinder.
The
neighborhood streets were still buried under broken snow but the main roads
held only a navigable layer of brown slush.
A few miles past
The
quiet was striking, with snow-cover canceling the quotidian chorus of
background noise. Every sharp exhalation,
snap of a plastic clasp, and footstep on squeaky packed snow made a prominent
sound. They knelt and strapped on their
snowshoes.
“Tastes like real snow!”, Vin said, running his tongue over his lips after a dusting of cold powder blew down on him. He noticed a fat bluejay perched on an overhead branch. They extracted Vin’s daypack and Nicky’s poles, then set out toward the parking lots at the end of the access road. Even with the detachable tails deployed on their molded-plastic snowshoes, they sank almost a foot into the unbroken snow with each step. Nicky fell in behind Vin so she could walk in his tracks.
At
the end of the uppermost lot they found the sign that marked the
trailhead. The trail itself lay buried,
but a channel through the woods was marked by blazes of blue paint. Just beyond the trailhead it forked, with the
blazes leading leftward up a stepped grade and an unmarked path descending to
the right. Vin veered right.
“Hey
Magellan. You seem to have lost your
compass.”
“From
the map back there,” he said, “I think this is the path to the climbing
rocks.” He snowshoed downhill through
young trees, across a lumpy vein of rocks, and then left around the
thumb-knuckle of an emerging rocky fist.
The trail traversed a shelf a few feet above the river’s edge. Seen from this angle, the fist was a series
of near-vertical rock faces rising forty feet overhead. Vin walked along the base looking up at the
cliffs. Snow had collected in the
crevices but the faces held only a dusting.
The path ended a hundred steps ahead where the fist angled into the
river. He took pictures of the rock
faces and trees against the snow.
“What
do you think? Should we take a climbing
lesson here this summer?”
“I
guess we could,” Nicky said. Sensing motion above, Vin looked up to see a
squirrel scamper across the cliff-top and dislodge a wedge of snow, triggering
a miniature avalanche that tumbled into the space between Vin and Nicky. “Or if that’s an omen, maybe we shouldn’t!” They retraced their steps to the fork, then
followed the blazes onto the main trail.
As
they walked, Vin surveyed the trees ahead of him, looking for the joined
sycamores that Kelsey Ainge had mentioned at the party. “Just downstream from Carderock,” she’d said,
with those flickering gray-green eyes locking onto his own. Sycamores were plentiful, but he didn’t see
any that were joined at the base. He
wondered again how she could have known what was in Lee Fisher’s note. And if there was some form of treasure or
truth buried beneath the sycamores, why hadn’t she unearthed it herself?
The
trail pushed toward the river and undulated along its snowy bank, five to
fifteen feet above the water. It was
late morning now and Vin grew warm from the exertion of walking through
unbroken snow. He stopped to take off
his gloves and look back at Nicky. She
was ten paces back, stealing glances out at the river, which was studded with
snow-capped rocks and little rapids glittering blue in the sunshine. He turned back toward the blazes.
As
the trail traversed the sloping, wooded riverbank, they slid down into shallow
drainages on their snowshoes, then struggled to ascend the far sides. Vin would climb out first, then take Nicky’s
poles and offer her a handhold as she followed.
They both removed their scarves and unzipped their jackets. Vin became skeptical that the trail led to a
clearing.
And
then he noticed a line of indentations along the trail in front of him, like
tracks made a day or two ago and covered by a layer of drifting snow. The old tracks descended from a treeless cut
up the slope to his left, which had a noticeable lip and blue sky beyond
it. The glimpse of sky told him that
there was level ground up there, only fifty feet above. There was even an improvised railing made
from a two-by-four nailed to two trees near the top of the slope. He waited for Nicky to catch up.
“Can
I have a drink of water?”, she asked.
Vin took off his gloves and daypack and pulled out one of the water
bottles. They both removed their hats
and drank, and he felt the cold water reinfuse his entire body. They were breathing hard and steam rose from
their heads and Vin’s hands. He put the
water away and took out his camera.
“I
just want to see what's above that little ridge there,” he said. “It looks like some kind of clearing.”
“This
wouldn’t have anything to do with 1924, would it? I thought maybe the treasure hunt had petered
out.”
“Just
a quick look.” He stashed the camera in
his pocket, put his gloves back on, and set his snowshoe teeth into the hillside. When he reached the two-by-four railing, he
thought he felt stairs beneath the snow underfoot. Driving his hands forward, he crested the
ridge.
It
was more than a clearing; he stood at the edge of a wide field. To his left was a pavilion with buried picnic
tables and barbecue grills. Straight across
the field were signs suggesting an adjacent parking lot, and the tracks came
from that direction. Feeling sheepish,
he realized that this was the recreational field he’d seen on the map, and that
the three-quarters of a mile they’d traveled had skirted the string of parking
lots and wooded picnic areas that comprised the park.
He
stopped to catch his breath, leaning back against the tree that anchored the
railing. Looking right he saw that
another two-by-four, perpendicular to the first, connected this tree to a
third. The connected railings formed an
L shape -- probably to funnel walkers onto the path he’d ascended, which must
be a sanctioned route to the Billy Goat Trail.
The Park Service was always trying to steer hikers to designated trails.
It
dawned on him that the tree to his right was a sycamore. He tilted his head back to look up and saw
another sycamore. Don’t tell me, he
thought, as he turned to look down the slope.
The lower end of the railing was nailed to a third sycamore. Three joined sycamores. His pulse quickened, then fell back as
exhilaration was undermined by doubt. He
looked at the sycamores in turn. Could
these trees be over seventy years old?
He’d learned that sycamores lived for hundreds of years, so maybe all
three dated back to 1924. But if they’d
been large enough to support a railing then, shouldn’t they be massive now?
And
could this have been what Lee meant by “joined”? Both two-by-fours were stained and dirty
beneath a crown of snow, but the boards couldn’t be seventy years old. Maybe they were replacement boards. He swept away snow near their juncture on the
center tree. They were solid, unrotted, no
more than ten years old. Just a few
scratches on the top edge of the horizontal board. The scratches caught the snow, so he brushed
over them again with his glove.
With
the surrounding snow gone, he saw that the scratches formed a word. Incised with careless writing, probably with
an awl or a screwdriver. And written in
white, since his glove had driven snow into the etched letters. “Killers.”
He inhaled sharply, staring
at the inscription, then snowshoed to the board’s opposite end. He brushed the snow from the railing where it
met the tree and found another inscription.
Just a single white symbol:
“$”. He sighed and retraced his
steps, sweeping the snow from the middle of the two-by-four but finding no
additional words.
He
stepped back and took a picture of each tree, then put his camera away and
started down the slope, sweeping snow from the descending railing. Halfway down he found more snow-filled
words. “Why are you here?” He exhaled hard and the steam from his breath
rose like smoke. A vague anxiety welled
up and he pressed along the railing with his glove to clear the board down to
the third sycamore. Where the railing
was nailed to the tree, the final white inscription was what he expected. “Dead.”
He snowshoed back down toward the Billy Goat Trail. “Why are you here?” Was the question addressed to him? If so, was he someone’s puppet? And what exactly did “here” mean? And the blatant reference to Lee Fisher’s note:
“One
tree leads to the money, the second leads to the killers and the third leads to
the dead.”
Clearly
Kelsey had steered him here. Was this
her work? Maybe this was a great joke
played on newcomers like Vin and Nicky, a joke about Swains Lock and 1924 that
everyone else in
“I’m
getting cold,” she said. “Let’s get
moving.” Vin noticed that a cloud was
screening the sun for the first time all morning. He felt too embarrassed and frustrated to
describe the inscriptions on the railings.
“You’re
right. We shouldn’t stand around for too
long after sweating.” He put his hat and
daypack on and started forward along the trail.
Soon it curved left, following a bend in the river bank. The bright sunshine returned. To their right a funnel of innocent rapids
emerged in the center of the thousand-foot-wide river, and the oscillating wave
crests shone against patches of blue
water like diamonds on sapphires. The
indentations of the old tracks in the snow led onward. Continuing to assess the terrain above him,
Vin spotted another opening in the trees and a wedge of sky above it. This time there were no descending tracks,
but he couldn’t resist his impulse to take a look. Maybe the previous trees were a diversion;
maybe the real sycamores were here.
Nicky shook her head when he mentioned a quick detour --
she didn't want to get cold again. “Do what you need to do, but I’m going to
keep moving.” She added that since she’d
have to break trail, it would be easy for him to catch up.
At
the top he was annoyed to discover that he was now standing on an annex of the same
field he’d visited earlier; it was screened from the main field by a row of
trees. He realized that the curve of the
trail meant that they’d been walking around and below the field. There were no sycamores nearby. He slid back down and followed Nicky’s tracks
along the Billy Goat Trail. They should
be only a half-mile or so from its downstream trailhead on the towpath. He crossed a ditch, noticing from Nicky’s
tracks that it had taken her more than one attempt to climb out.
“Why
are you here?” Why indeed, he
wondered. Now he felt guilty about his
preoccupation with Lee Fisher’s note to Charlie Pennyfield. Why wasn’t it enough to snowshoe in the woods
with Nicky on a beautiful snowy day? She
had alluded to his attempt to solve the implicit riddle of Lee’s note as a
“treasure hunt”. Was she right? Was that all it was? If so, why was he deliberately inserting it
between them? Why, he knew she wondered,
wasn’t he focused on planning their wedding or finding a full-time job? Good questions, he thought.
He
snowshoed over a mound and saw a gulley in front of him, steep-sided and eight
or ten feet deep. It was a frozen
streambed buried by snowdrifts. The
trail veered left along the rim of the gulley, then crossed it on a narrow snow-covered
footbridge. The entrance to the bridge
was flanked by two wooden posts and Nicky was slumped awkwardly on her side
just beyond them -- one leg skewed under the other, a snowshoe-tail flipped
away from her boot, propped on an elbow with her hands still in the pole-straps. He hurried toward her.
“Nicky! Are you OK?”
The snow around her on the bridge was disturbed and he wondered if she’d
tried unsuccessfully to stand up.
“I’m
alright,” she said. Her voice was airy
and soft and she only turned part way toward him. He knelt to help her up and she took several
breaths before continuing. “I guess I
must have tripped. I don’t really
remember. I was kind of lost in thought,
and then all of a sudden I was lying here.
Almost like I blacked out for a minute.”
Vin
brushed the snow from her jacket and helped remove her pole-straps. “Probably low blood sugar,” he said. “We should get some calories into you before
you stand up.”
“OK,”
she said weakly, looking at him now. Vin
pulled the cookies from his daypack. He
watched Nicky drink water and eat a few fig bars, then ate and drank a bit
himself.
“Ready
to get up?”
“Ready.”
He reached over to realign her snowshoe with her boot,
then stood up and supported her hands as she got to her feet. “How do you feel?”
“Better,”
she said. “I think the sugar helped a
lot. I feel OK now.”
He
handed Nicky her poles and started forward along the bridge. As he slung his pack over his shoulder and stepped,
his right leg met no resistance and he plunged through the bridge into the
gulley below. He’d lowered his shoulder toward
the strap, and when his leg dropped his body tilted downhill along the axis of
the gulley. This is surreal, he thought,
falling head-first toward the drift. I
feel like a cartoon character duped into stepping off a cliff. He twisted to get his hands beneath him and
braced for a collision with a rocky streambed.
Instead
he felt a cushiony deceleration as soft snow enveloped him. Blowing snow had filled the gulley more than
six feet deep, and his gloved hands pushed down into the drift. The press of freezing snow against his face
and head was shocking and made him skip a breath. He extended his arms deeper into the snow to
press against the streambed for support but couldn’t find it. His snowshoes held near the surface, so his
legs and feet were above his buried upper body.
He
opened his eyes and saw that the bright light outside had faded to a dim
glow. He twisted his head to create free
space that he could breathe from, but his exhaled breath froze instantly, and
he felt a cradle of ice forming around his face. His heart was racing and electric shivers of
energy coursed through his arms and legs.
Adrenaline. Jesus! A lifetime in the snow and he’d never fallen
into a ridiculous position like this! He
kicked his feet to free them of loose snow, then tried to bend his knees and
pry his torso up against them. His knees
pushed deeper into the drift. He tried
to lift his head, but the snow above it felt like a frozen hand holding him
down.
He
rested, breathing shallowly against the ice cradling his face. I’m not getting enough air, he thought. He could hear Nicky calling his name and the
sound of rhythmic motion through snow.
She’s digging toward me. Not
enough air. My arms, he thought,
twisting his torso a few degrees. If I
can pull my arms back to my chest, there will be air from the arm holes. On his third attempt he was able to pull an arm
out of its tunnel in the snow and bend it up underneath his chest. He swiveled his head and inhaled, trying to
draw air from the vacated hole.
“Vin!” Nicky’s voice was louder now and the sound of
digging had grown more frantic.
“Here!”,
he tried to yell, but the shell of his snow coffin reflected the sound and he
wasn’t sure he could be heard. He
struggled to twist his upper body, then pushed a hand up into the snow above
him. Powder tumbled against his face.
“Nicky!”,
he yelled, punching into the ceiling of snow again. His arm went a few inches further. “Nicky, here!” He felt his voice fading and a prickly
sensation encircled his forehead and temples, as if a vine had been looped around
his head and was being tightened. It
grew darker and he saw a row of diffuse orange spots. He punched once more into the snow overhead
and felt his hand break through to the weightless air.
“Vin!”,
he heard Nicky scream again.
“Here!”,
he answered, but it was barely a rasp.
He withdrew his hand into the snow, saw light reach the channel he had
opened, and felt a taste of sharper, dryer air.
He hyperventilated toward the air channel, then thrust his hand as far
as he could back toward the surface.
This
time he felt contact, and Nicky’s gloved hand grasped his own. He rotated his arm and Nicky pushed his hand
into a widening spiral. Loose snow fell
onto his face, and he blinked and shook his head as the widening hole filled
his snow coffin with air and light.
Nicky dug snow away from his upper body with both hands. The weight on his torso and neck diminished
and he was able to twist onto his back and reach both arms toward her. She yanked him sideways and he managed to
bend a foot beneath him, push his snowshoe down, find leverage at last. He dragged his other foot into the pit, then kicked
and thrusted until he managed to stand.
Panting
and too tired to speak, he turned toward Nicky.
She was breathless too, her face red with exertion and her arms, hat,
and hair covered with snow. He leaned in
to hug her, bracing his knees and waist against snow. He felt her choke through silent sobs that
resolved into fast and shallow breaths.
“God,
Vin! That was horrible!” She pulled away to see him through tearing
eyes. “What happened?”
Vin
felt his own eyes water. He wiped his
face with his sleeve, freed the snow around his ears. “I don’t know,” he said between breaths. “I stepped right through the bridge.” He took off his hat and shook the snow
loose. “Are you OK?”
Nicky
nodded as he crawled out of the pit.
They helped each other stand and their snowshoes prevented them from
sinking deeper than their knees. Nicky
collected her poles and they plowed to the far side of the gulley, where Vin
helped her climb out to the trail beyond the bridge. As he started to follow her, he realized his
shoulders were unencumbered.
“My
pack,” he said. “It came loose when I
fell. Hang on.” He waded back toward the bridge. Passing the snow pit he’d created, he tried to
envision the trajectory of his fall. He
saw Nicky’s tracks entering the gulley and a second crater in the snow. That must have been where she was digging at
first, he thought. How could she have
missed the right spot by six feet? His
daypack had created its own hole in the snow.
He fished it out, then leaned in to examine the underside of the bridge.
In
the middle section the four right-most planks were missing, and the joists
beneath the missing planks looked new.
They’d been covered by a sheet of building-wrap that had been strong
enough to support the snow but incapable of holding his additional weight. Swearing to himself, he reached under the
bridge to pull the building-wrap loose. As
it shed its snow blanket, he noticed a flash of orange beneath the bridge. He draped the wrap back onto the bridge,
looked underneath again, and saw a flat, orange diamond splattered with fallen
snow. It was a sign, and his head throbbed
lightly as he read the words on its front.
“Bridge Out. Trail Ahead Closed.” He jammed the sign into the snow with its
words facing the trail behind them, then followed his tracks to the edge of the
gulley and climbed out. Nicky leaned
back and extended her poles for him to use as handholds.
They
walked the remainder of the trail in silence and without incident, with Vin
leading. The last stretch veered away
from the river, up a gentle grade through thinning woods. The flat white towpath and the open space
over the canal emerged through the trees.
Approaching the trailhead, Vin saw that it was blocked by posts nailed
together with cross-boards, and that another sign was affixed to these
boards. They sidestepped around to the
towpath, then stopped to read it. Vin
already knew what it would say. “Trail
Closed. Use Alternate Trailhead.”
While
hiking in silence he had aligned the pieces in his mind, and though they didn’t
quite connect, he was unable to abandon the framework. Whoever had etched the words on the railings
must have seen Lee Fisher’s note. If it
was Kelsey, that would mean she had quoted it twice. And that she had tried to lead him here.
And
the question, “why are you here?” Did
that mean Carderock? The Billy Goat
Trail?
“I
don’t think we’ll have to worry about broken bridges or missing signs from here
on,” he said, still staring at the sign.
Nicky laughed and sniffled. He
turned to see her wiping her nose on her sleeve, and noticed now that she’d
been crying. “What’s the matter,
honey?” He put his gloved hands on her
shoulders and lowered his head toward hers. She squinted through teary eyes and sniffled
again.
“I
don’t know,” she said. “I couldn’t find
you and was afraid I was going to lose you when you fell. And I felt like it was my fault. Like I was trying to help you but I was doing
the wrong things.” She exhaled
deeply. “I don’t know…” she repeated,
shaking her head. “I don’t know what’s
happening to me.”